Champagne and sparkling wine is synonymous with celebration,
and what better time to be celebrating than with friends and family over
Christmas?
Champagne is often served as an aperitif or for a toast. As
you may have read here before, it can definitely be served throughout all
courses. Perfect for an Aussie Christmas, champagne pairs especially well with
seafood, and choose a traditional blend including red fruit, or a Blanc de
Noirs, or Rosé with the more robust main course flavours of ham and turkey. Those
of you who love a sparkling red may choose to include this in your line-up.
Now that we have the wine sorted, which glass should we use
to serve?
There is the champagne coupe or saucer glass. Legend has it
the shape of the coupe was modelled on the left breast of the French Queen
Marie Antoinette, wife of King Louis XVI of France, but it seems that the glass
was designed in England over a century earlier especially for sparkling wine
and champagne in 1663. The coupe was fashionable in France from its
introduction in the 1700s until the 1970s, and in the US, and Australia from
the 1930s to the 1980s. The coupe had a revisit a few years ago, with a bit of
Art Deco, Great Gatsby-inspired frivolity. Perfect to build a champagne tower,
they are lots of fun, but not very practical. Apart from making it easy to
spill, the glass is very wide creating a large surface area for the wine, with
an open rim, which means that the bubbles dissipate very quickly.
Then there is the champagne flute. The skinny flute,
designed to accentuate the view of the bubbles as they rise up in the glass,
has definitely dominated the glassware served for the past 30 years or so. These
glasses make it lot easier to serve, you can fit many more on a tray than the
coupe, and you are less likely to spill your drink. But, you may be surprised
to discover, this is not the best glass to be using.
If you visit the Champagne region, you will find that many restaurants will serve champagne in a white wine glass. This may seem strange at first, but a good exercise to try at home is; pour half of your glass of bubbles into a skinny flute, and half into a white wine glass. Taste a few sips from the skinny flute, then try it from the wine glass. Take time to explore the aromas and taste. Most likely, it will taste like a different wine. This is because to truly appreciate a good wine, you need to take in all of the senses: the look, the aroma, the feel and taste.
The skinny flute presents champagne as one-dimensional, because
you can’t get your nose into the glass to get the full wine experience. It also
concentrates the bubbles and in trying to get the aromas you’ll often get a
nose full of fizz and acidity instead.
This presented a challenge, as part of the fun of having
bubbles is the special glass. Onto the scene comes a wider tulip or egg-shaped
flute; a sort of hybrid of flute and standard white wine glass with a wider middle
that tapers at the top. This allows for a wine lover’s ability to appreciate
the full range of aromas. This is still a beautiful stylish glass, but let’s
you take in the full appreciation of the wine.
I’ve read that the tulip style has origins from the Sommelier
at Les Crayères restaurant in Reims, who didn’t like serving top champagnes in
a flute. He is said to have worked with glass makers Lehmann glass to develop an
elongated glass, rounded in the middle and tapering towards the top wider
flute.
This as a superior shape has been confirmed by science, with
Gérard Liger-Belair, a physicist at the University of Reims, stating that ‘the
spherical shape of the glass, which also encourages vertical movement, respects
the role of the mousse’.
The RIEDEL brand known for innovation and design, and an
industry leader in the introduction of grape-varietal-specific stemware in the
1980s, has also collaborated with some of the top champagne houses to create
bespoke glasses tailored to their specific wines.
Each bubble carries aroma to the surface. The RIEDEL glasses
are designed to provide a ‘progressive extension along the curve of the glass
which favours first a gradual then a stretched ascent, allowing each bubble to
burst at the widest point to free its flavours and express aromatic subtlety’.
A champagne glass should be clear, not coloured or engraved
with fancy design, so we can assess the wine’s clarity, colour and bubbles.
I’ve also noticed a recent trend of stemless glassware. Whilst
this might be a nice casual style for other wines, it is a no for bubbles. We
hold the glass by the stem, so that the heat from our hands doesn’t warm the
wine, and greasy fingerprints don’t obscure the wine’s colour. Perhaps I need
therapy, but I must admit I have to look away when I see friends holding their
glass by the bowl and not the stem, as I can’t bear to watch. Note to my family
coming over for Christmas!
When I present tips on how to taste bubbles at our events, I
always remind people to hold their glass by the stem, and also that there is no
need to swirl the glass (to get air and aroma). When tasting bubbles, the
bubbles will bring out the aromas out for you.
Some wine writers are asking ‘Should champagne flutes be
outlawed?’ I think this might be a bit extreme, but I do agree, my preference
for good quality bubbles is to serve them in a wider flute or white wine glass.
Most important though, is the joy of sharing bubbles with friends and family. Find the best glass you can, raise it and say cheers!
Natalie Pickett is the Founder of The Bubbles Review which is for people who like champagne and other bubbles, written by people who have a love of all things sparkling! At The Bubbles Review, we like to debunk some myths, make the art of drinking champagne accessible, explore bubbly regions and champagne bars, and provide events for you to join us and indulge.
We are very excited to have RIEDEL glassware as our giveaway
partner this December, and our glassware provider for The Bubbles
Festival.
Our subscriber giveaway which is the Extreme Rosé /
Champagne glass twin pack (RRP$59.95) will be drawn on 13 December 2019.
The Extreme Rosé/Champagne Glass is perfect for developing and displaying champagne’s complex characteristics. This glass allows the wide range of aromatics to unfold thanks to its egg-shaped design, with the larger rim diameter enabling them to be released in a way which is not achieved with a narrow glass.
Like to keep following us, get first look at events, receive bubbly information and be in our giveaway draws and have a chance to win a bubbly prize? You can join our list, it’s FREE to join here.
As we discovered in my recent blog on rosé, there is no such thing as a red champagne (a rosé but not a red), but there are sparkling reds from other parts of the world made with all kinds of red grape varieties.
Sparkling red wines begin their life in the same way as
still reds, fermented on skins to extract colour, flavour and tannin. The
finest are then privileged to méthode traditionnelle, although transfer,
charmat or carbonation methods for cheaper wines can also be used.
In Australia, a Sparkling Shiraz is loved by many. I recently
confessed to my fellow bubbly enthusiasts that I do love a sparkling rosé, but
I am not a lover of sparkling reds. I
realise that is un-Australian, and wondered if there were others that shared my
view? So, I put it out there and sent a
survey to our list, and oh my, what a flurry of passionate responses!
Although there are no precise records, it seems that the tradition of Aussie sparkling reds can be attributed to Charles Pierlot a winemaker from Champagne who was employed at Hans Irvine’s Great Western cellars. He experimented with making some of Australia’s first ‘sparkling burgundy’ wines in 1893. More than 125 years later, this legacy continues with Seppelt and other Aussie producers now known as makers of some of the world’s finest bubbly reds.
I do love the change of seasons, the cooler nights, which go so well with hearty food, casseroles and rich flavoured meals. As we are in the cooler months here in Australia, perhaps a long weekend lunch (or brekkie as one of our readers suggested!) or an evening meal, with a sparkling rosé or red might be the perfect bubbly match for your Autumn and Winter dining.
Here are
the results to our bubbly red questions:
We asked ~
What do you like, love or dislike about sparkling reds?
Here are your comments:
Tracey
A great full-bodied alternative to sparkling whites.
Lynn
Cannot drink still or sparkling red wines … bad reaction
Rhonda
I like sparkling reds more with heavier foods, so more in the colder months, however I did have a couple of nice cold refreshing red bubbles over summer. It’s nice to be able to have a choice and some variety.
Kaye Harris
Love the earthiness of Grampians Estate sparkling red from their Great Western block victoria
Mandy P.
Some of the sparkling reds can be a bit heavy.
Barbara Kahi
I think it is an acquired taste. Not great availability where I live. Need to find a friend to share a bottle. My wine drinking friend lives in NZ and I live on the Gold Coast. Maybe share with my brother in law who likes to chill his red wines.
Cassie Maywald
I don’t like red wine and relate similar taste to this I think. I also don’t want to risk buying a sparkling red only to be disappointed and wished I stuck to my champagne.
I like sparkling reds as they feel more celebratory than a still wine. Rose is my favourite at present
Karen Nicol
I adore red wine, but what could be better than red wine with bubbles!
Sandy
Love the fresh bubbly berry tastes
Robyn Naughton
They have just a different texture and flavour
Donna Maloney
Love the taste, goes well with food from chilli chocolate to duck to dumplings. It looks festive and bubbles are always wonderful.
Louise
Love Sparkling Merlot & Shiraz. I believe they are like a truth serum!
Either summer or winter I absolutely love a chilled sparkling red. So full of flavour
Carol
I like them as a yummy alternative to sparkling white. There are some lovely Victorian ones from up Rutherglen way. They also go well with cheese at the end of a meal.
Michelle 🙂
They do not have the same crispness and are not as refreshing
I enjoy sparkling white wine personally and sparkling red is something I can only drink in small amounts, not as enjoyable.
Susanne Meier
I love the marriage of red and bubbles. The bubbles totally change the nature of reds. Versatile food pairings in cooler temps.
The bubbles, and the sensation of
drinking sparkling red
Jan Martin
I like red wine and love bubbles! A great combo and a Christmas tradition!
Marg
Drinks well while eating cheese and sometimes l prefer a sparkling red instead of a heavy red.
You still have bubbles but with a heavier meal. I leave in North East Vic and we have a few great reds that are great sparkling wines
Megan
I don’t drink red wine, so If I try a sparkling red, I just find it too heavy.
Nicole Olbourne
The flavour profile is just all wrong when it’s a sparkling. Maybe it’s the tannins but it’s just yuck!!
Kate
The delight the bubbles add to the red experience.
Sue Hobbs
Too fruity. It’s like fizzy cordial
Heather
They are very different I wouldn’t drink a still red if you paid me
Lyn D
Not really a lover of reds sparkly or still
Beverley Monley
I don’t like as I just think a full bodied Red with bubbles just isn’t right & I just don’t like the taste.
Mel
I don’t like cheap sparkling reds as they are sweet and horrible, but good quality wines have richness, good dark fruits and savoury notes and complementary sweetness. I love them mainly in the warmer weather, especially at Christmas, but happy to have in cooler weather as an aperitif too.
Shauna
I love a true Lambrusco that has a slight sparkle to it. Particularly in winter.
Zoe
I mainly drink Shiraz so a sparkling red is a bit of fun.
Mel Butler
They tend to be too heavy and sweet. I like my sparkling wine dry and light, crisp and favoured in warmer weather.
Lee
Any sparkly wine that’s not too sweet is great.
The benefits of drinking a lovely full bodied red with the all important bubbles.
Michelle
I don’t mind the occasional one but
some are too sweet and I prefer still red.
Meryl
Not fond of red. Will drink it if I have to, but not my preferred tipple.
Sofie
I just don’t drink red wines and the bubbles do nothing to change my mind or enhance the flavour.
Dr Annetta Mallon
Often they are too bold, heavy, or just ‘too much’. I generally prefer sparkling white and rose.
Carol Embleton
It doesn’t have the same fresh taste as my usual bubbles. I only like still full bodies red wines. There is just something that doesn’t blend with my taste buds about sparkling red.
Karen
I have just never been a lover of red wine
Sherryn
Absolutely love the depth of flavour in a decent sparkling red
Jane Symes
Love red wine sparkling or not, turning to the dark side after years of white wine, red just better.
Leanne Bruce
There are some great sparkling reds and it is a drink I enjoy in winter as I love my bubbles 🙂
I find them too heavy to drink
I can’t really comment as I have only had limited tries.
Tanina
I love red wine, however I’ve never found one Sparkling red I’ve ever liked, it’s something about the taste, it just doesn’t taste like a red, they also can be tricky to open and fly out the bottle when opening, be careful you don’t get covered in it!
Georgia
A really good sparkling red is an experience you rarely have when drinking anything ‘bubbly’. It has a zest and vibrancy that is exciting and really let’s you appreciate the red variety it has come from.
Loretta Wellman
I get drunk very quickly with sparkling red yet I can drink a bottle or two of champagne and I’m just HAPPY!!!!!
Chanel
I am not a fan of sparkling reds, I think the whole attraction to a red is the temperature and thick feeling and the sparkling seems to take that away. Having said this, I am open to the idea of a sparkling red and will keep taste testing them at wineries as you never know I might change my mind.
Anne Mac
Prefer still reds
Ann
I love the rich red colour and jammy berry taste. Even chilled it’s a winter warmer for me
Wendy McCullough
They are good when you only want to have just one glass of bubbles. For instance, tonight my partner wants to celebrate a small win. I don’t want to drink a full bottle (which I will do if I open white or rose sparkling) so a sparkling red will ensure I just have one, ok, two. I don’t drink the flat reds or whites.
Feels too heavy.
Debs
They seem to affect me a lot quicker – heavier to drink!
Pauline Lang
I don’t have them often but as long as it is not sweet ok.
Katherine
Bit too big for my liking. It’s a bit like drinking a bubbly shiraz.
Denis Zaruba
I’m French and for me the only reason why Australians created sparkling reds is to have it on very hot days (30 + degrees) and it’s not at all as fine as champagne is. It’s overpowering!!
Nicole
I think they are too heavy
Not quite as bubbly as champagne but brings out special flavour of the red….still prefer still red though.
Carmela Dimattia
Cannot be sweet so I like my reds a little drier
Too strong
Carolena Boyd
I really like the boldness of a good red – combined with the bubbles.
Prefer sparkling white or rose, rarely drink any red wine at all.
Anna Buddee
Just love the rich heady aroma of the bubbly sparkling reds!
Pam
I enjoy drinking sparkling red on a hot day, usually with a cheese board, for something different.
Sharon
Some are amazing and others too heavy. I’ll try any wine once but sparkling reds make me a bit picky
Wendy
A little more full bodied than normal sparkles.
Michael Potter
I’ve never found one yet that I can drink. The flavour isn’t my cup of tea… or glass of wine.
Isa
I just prefer a flat red or a white sparkling. I don’t like the taste of a sparkling red
Megan Deves
I love a little more full flavour sometimes when I’m craving a sparkling
Vicki W
Not a red wine drinker whether still or bubbly…I dont mind rose but anything heavier is not my style.
Cheryl
Some time you need a red and I don’t do plain reds but with a steak or a bbq a sparkling red goes down well.
I don’t love red wine as much as I love white wine. And sparkling red is just so foreign and unappealing to me
I don’t mind a light red sparkling but if it’s too heavy I don’t like it at all.
Anitra
I used to enjoy them 15-20 years ago but don’t any more. I think my palate is more discerning these days.
I enjoy sparkling wines and also red wine so being red & sparkling is a nice change
Lynda Doncaster
Better than champagne or a glass of red as combines both!!
Karla
They’re great. So much depth of flavour for when you have a hot meal and/or cold weather.
Ainsley
The rich colour, all the big red-wine flavours combined with the mousse mouthfeel of bubbles – it’s a winner for me. I prefer a sparkling red to a still as the bubbles seem to lighten the wine a bit?
Karen Brus
Love it in winter, a different take on a still red. My hubby loves sharing a bottle with me.
Lucy
They taste wrong. You lose the depth of a good, still red wine and the sparklings don’t have the vivacity of a good sparkling white.
Cheryl Bisi
Reds just aren’t meant to be sparkling! Reds are a ‘heavier’ type of wine that does not suit the light nature of a sparkling wine in my view.
Suzanne Adair
Red is red and bubbles are white and pink
Chris
Bubbles
Jane Ross
As long as they’re not too sweet. Sparkling red is the bomb! Love it
Wendy Hills
We only drink them in winter as a refreshing drink, not a serious wine if that makes sense.
Lisa Cicchine
I love the intensity of Sparkling reds
Mark
It just tastes wrong – a fad that needs to die!
Chris
Well it is sparkling, so I have to love it. Not a big red wine drinker, prefer bubbles, so this is a fabulous way to get all those red wine “health benefits ” !
Fiona McL
I have a local favourite that I just find easy & comforting to drink
Sparkling reds are too heavy for me
Pene Kats
I quite like Lambrusco. It’s an Italian wine that is slightly sparkling and has a pleasing, deep, fruity flavour.
Make sure you invest in a decent label though, this wine is not good when it’s cheap. Brown Brothers do a nice one for between $10.00 to $20.00 (I cant remember exactly!). Make sure you drink this cold!
Simon
Deep rich sparkling wine with a flavour which complements many foods
Dot
Taste is bitter
Love red wine and it is a tasty red with bubbles !!!!
Caz Karski
I have never been a fan of red wine, so it just seems logical that even putting bubbles into it, I wouldn’t like it.
Lis
It’s diversity and pairs well with food. Great on a hot day.
Jules
Grew up having ‘cold duck’ with Sunday lunch! Love sparkling red to this day
I like the heaviness of the red wine in winter but still with a sparkle!
Dislike the nose
Alison
The depth of flavour combined with the joy of bubbles.
Maree
I think a red should be smooth rich ripe full bodied but not bubbly.
Maz Glover
If it’s a sweeter red I am sure I will drink it
Melinda
The taste is just not correct to me
Doreen Swann
I just don’t like reds of any kind but my husband loves reds
Kerrie Hodgson
I really love bubbles full stop, so if I start on champagne or bubbles, I can easily follow up with a sparkling red rather than a still white or red. After the first couple of sips its just as delicious as bubbles.
Sharon
I like my bubbly to have a light flavour and red tends to be very full bodied
Maria Moreira
I love the tingling, bubbling, fresh, effervescent sensation on your taste buds and the chilling vibe you get from swishing sparkling reds in your mouth. They tend to go with many varieties of food!
Kristan Lum
I think the bubbles help with sparkling reds, adds a different texture in flavour and exciting
Hate the smell of red wine
Kym Durbano
Don’t like the taste
Kerry
Sometimes I just like the feeling of something sparkling. It is refreshing. You don’t want a big, bold red just something light.
Nedda
I just like bubbles can drink anything including reds
Lynn
I do not like red wine sparkling or still and they do not like me!
Anne
It just does not seem the way to do a sparkling
Jackie K
Most taste lighter, a great alternative to a heavier red.
Kate
It just doesn’t feel like the right combination. I don’t enjoy the red flavours when it is fizzy and cold. I miss the crisp freshness of a white. The furthest I will go is a sparkling Rose for the added fruitiness. Leave reds alone.
Brenton Jolly
Just something different and unusual and something delicious any time of the year.
Robbie Poulton
As a Champagne traditionalist I don’t enjoy sparkling reds…too heavy! However I do enjoy a cheeky sparkling Rose. It’s all about the texture for me.
Louise Lupton
I find all red wine too heavy even with bubbles
Heidi
I think they are ok, although maybe a bit weird.
They taste good and are an alternative to white bubbles
Ally
They can be hit and miss, sometimes too sweet. You want some sweetness, but lovely plum flavours, great with cheese or dessert
Elaine
I haven’t found one I like the taste of
Sharyn Campbell
Can’t really pin point why but I do love red wine and drinking it with bubbles (and cold) is just not for me. I probably like sparkling white as I don’t drink white wine much and sparkling white is just so good for any occasion.
Jodi
I love red wine, I love bubbles, so a sparkling red is a favourite of mine, refreshing and flavoursome 🙂
Sue. S
Sparkling reds make a nice fruity change from white bubbles
Ann Blannin-Ferguson
At non-summery days a sparkling shiraz with some yummy cheeses is perfect
Took a fine young lady on the vintage Daimler Benz tour of the Barossa in 2003 and a work colleague suggested going to Charles Melton and he hand makes a sparkling red every few years method traditional. Tasted one then, it was great bought some, he said you can put it away for 20yrs and drink on a special occasion, cracked one at my father’s 70th 2 yrs ago. Still great. Audrey Wilkinson makes one also in Hunter.
Rachel
You can drink reds in the middle of summer! And drink bubbles in the middle of winter.
I don’t like the overly sweet ones.
I don’t like red wine
A tad too big for my liking.. perhaps dangerous is the word!
Nadine Lambert
I’m a South Australian. We love our reds, the bigger, the bolder, the better. But it’s also bloody hot in summer. Arguably too hot to drink our big reds (even chilled), so a big bold dry sparkling red is the perfect compromise. (just don’t give us any of that sweet red sh#t). Love from your South Australian readers
Jodie
I’ll be honest, I’m undecided about the taste.
Lisa Scheepers
At first I was dubious about sparkling reds as I love my red at room temperature. After trying a sparkling shiraz one day I’ve been hooked ever since. I love the full body of shiraz mixed with the light bubbles.
Tiffany Hansen
Dislike – taste is awful on all reds
Julie
Not a big fan, I just prefer Sparkling whites or Rose. Not as heavy in flavour.
Cecilia
I love sparkling Shiraz. You get the full body flavour but a sparkling version of a still red.
Chilled sparkling red is much lighter and refreshing
Anthony
A good chilled red on a hot day can be lovely. Especially Stanton & Killeen’s sparkling red in Rutherglen.
Sarah Mack
Perfect blend of winter and summer. Sparkling reds in summer chilled and add a lightless in winter.
I only like them if they are a light red.
Helen
Don’t seem to have the same taste/effect as white sparkling and gives me a headache.
Oli
So warming in winter
Mark Phelps
Fantastic drink, I love a good red and to add bubbles is a unique way to enjoy them. Great with a cooked brekky as well as by the fireside.
I’m not a red drinker, so I think that preference transfers in to the sparkling reds.
Sometimes they can be very refreshing.
Kelly (Gadgetgirl)
It is somehow just wrong. I like full bodied reds, especially in winter. Bubbles to me, are cold and refreshing and best drunk all year round.
Elaine Mitchell
It’s something different and a light hearted way to enjoy reds in Summer as I am not a fan of “chilling” reds. It’s also a good way to get non red drinkers eased into reds.
Thank you to everyone who shared their comments. I really loved reading them all. I always say, there is no right or wrong when it comes to tasting wine. If you like it, that is all that matters.
I did notice in our subscriber comments that some mentioned sparkling reds were “dangerous” and a “truth serum”. A reminder that red wine usually has a higher alcohol content than white wine, and this is especially so with bubbles, a champagne at 12.5% and a prosecco is usually around 11%, compared to sparkling reds at around 13-15%. Remember to pace yourself and enjoy responsibly!
Natalie Pickett is the Founder of The Bubbles Review which is for people who like champagne and other bubbles, written by people who have a love of all things sparkling! At The Bubbles Review, we like to debunk some myths, make the art of drinking champagne accessible, explore bubbly regions and champagne bars, and provide events for you to join us and indulge.
Like to keep following us, get first look at events, receive bubbly information and be in our giveaway draws and have a chance to win a bubbly prize? You can join our list, it’s FREE to join here.
It seems like Pét-Nats are popping up everywhere at the
moment. One might assume that they are a new wine style, or just another
hipster trend. Well, they are definitely ‘on trend’, but you may be surprised
to discover that Pét-Nats are actually the oldest sparkling wine! With records showing them pre. 1500s long
before the sparkling wines of England (1662) and then Champagne in 1668.
So, what is a Pét-Nat?
Pét-Nat is short for pétillant naturel, which is means
“naturally sparkling” in French. It is made
in the “ancestral” method of bottling
before the first fermentation has finished, allowing the process to complete in
bottle (as opposed to the Champagne method, which commences second fermentation
in bottle after the first has completed in tank/barrel).
The more rustic approach to making pét-nat means that there is less interference, so it is on trend as a natural sparkling. It is usually less bubbly and less refined, so I wouldn’t compare it to champagne or other sparkling wines, but be open to try something different. I have seen some people liken it to drinking beer (although it is still made with grapes), I can see the comparison, as it refreshing in that way and this winemaking process results in a less alcoholic wine. This relaxed, casual wine is perfect for an Autumn picnic matched with a Charcuterie plate, or try it with something sweet!
Our giveaway this month is from Chateau La Colombiere which is in Fronton, 30 mins north of
Toulouse, where husband and wife team Diane and Philippe Cauvin are
painstakingly nursing back from extinction some of France’s rarest vines. The
pair are living their dream, crafting wines from the regional ancient variety:
Negrette which is native to their area of Fronton. Diane took the reins of the
family estate after learning viticulture and completing a tour de force
throughout French vineyards including Burgundy. The first and perhaps the most
significant change was to step up the effort to preserve these rare vines by
farming biodynamically in 2006. As the vines have been cultivated here in the
same way since the 15th century, this was a significant change, to say the
least. Add to this hand picking and sorting and you get the base to create
something delicious.
The feature this month is 2016 Chateau La Colombiere, Sparkling Pet Nat, Negrette.
Tastes like: Some
sediments in suspension, the mousse is rich, bubbles are generous and active
for a Pét-Nat even after opening. It is a delicious dry style with yeasty and
fresh strawberry as well as fleshy peach notes. This smashable low alcohol
sparkling Pet Nat have also some cider vibe with flavour of ripe red apples.
Area: Fronton (South-West France)
Farming: Biodynamic (certified)
Grapes: Negrette (100%)
Occasion: Brunch/ lunch/ dinner wine! A perfect park wine or
by the pool.
Food match: Charcuterie, salads or fresh goat cheese.
When to drink: Drink now or before end 2019.
With special thanks to Mosaique
Wines who import and distribute this and other artisanal wines from France.
The owner Thomas Gisbert told me:
“I travel extensively throughout the country each year to
bring you a collection of wines that reflect the heart and soul of this land- a
mosaic of small and beautiful parts that make a bigger picture.
Each wine has been hand-selected for the unique qualities they express, lovingly made by local producers who dedicated their lives to their craft. These producers respect the land they farm above all else, using sustainable, organic or biodynamic techniques to nourish their vines and the ecosystem around them. We have endeavoured to tell their stories in the hope you can envisage yourself sharing a glass with these characters and enjoying the fruits of their labour.”
Natalie Pickett is the Founder of The Bubbles Review which is for people who like champagne and other bubbles, written by people who have a love of all things sparkling! At The Bubbles Review, we like to debunk some myths, make the art of drinking champagne accessible, explore bubbly regions and champagne bars, and provide events for you to join us and indulge.
Like to keep following us? Sign up to The Bubbles Review list and you will be included in our Subscriber prize draws. The monthly giveaway is usually a chance to win a lovely champagne or sparkling gift. Join our list!
I love a chance to visit Tasmania. I have trekked through some of its great natural landscapes, the Overland Track from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair, Bay of Fires lodge walk, and Freycinet looking over the beautiful Wineglass Bay. But it is not just the scenery that I love; they also do food and wine exceptionally well!
In particular, they make great bubbly! Tasmania’s reputation for producing some of Australia’s best sparkling wines is increasing each year, thanks to the pristine cool climate, which is very similar to the Champagne region of France and perfect for growing grapes for sparkling. Such is the reputation of sparkling wines from Tasmania, according to Tyson Stelzer, award- winning wine writer and reviewer “No region anywhere on the planet outside of Champagne itself makes sparkling as exceptionally as Tasmania”. High praise indeed!
My research for this blog was made up of a series of trips in 2018 and 2019 (as well as attending Effervescence a festival of Tasmanian Sparkling wine). In contrast to mainland Australia, Tasmania as an island state is compact, but it is bigger than you think, it is not possible to cover everything in a few days. For the purposes of this blog I have broken it down into a few regions: the Tamar Valley (north near Launceston), East Coast (Freycinet), and Hobart and surrounds.
As always, I suggest that you check the winery website to
confirm opening times, tasting fees, and to make bookings for tours or meals,
which I suggest that you do for most of the Cellar Doors with a restaurant.
There are so many sparklings on tasting here, a visit to the Cellar Doors really is a bubbly paradise! I suggest that you will need a designated driver, and there are a few local tour operators that offer wine tours, which is always a good way to find your way around, Uber is available in Hobart and has now arrived in Launceston, and local taxis could also get you to the Cellar Doors that are located near to one of these cities.
Tamar Valley
The Tamar Valley Wine Route covers the wineries in this region, I realised this can even be broken into a few smaller regions: Relbia just south of Launceston, West Tamar, East Tamar and Pipers River in the North East of the Tamar.
The area enjoys a significant climatic advantage that is unique to the rest of Australia; that of very low day time temperatures caused from the local geographical features. The waters of Bass Strait cool the hot northerly winds, while the cool southerlies gain heat as they cross the island. Cool temperatures and significant sunshine hours make for ideal conditions to retain delicate aromas in the fruit. The frosty and sometimes wild conditions of winter give way to clear, crisp, blue-sky days through the growing season, allowing the fruit to ripen slowly and evenly, assuring the lingering acidity essential to producing premium cool climate wines.
Relbia
Josef Chromy
This Cellar Door is around a 15 minute drive from
Launceston. Josef Chromy OAM has been instrumental to the Tasmanian food and
wine industry, having owned and developed some of Tasmania’s leading wineries
including Rochecombe (now Bay of Fires), Jansz, Heemskerk and Tamar Ridge.
In December 2007, at 76, when most people would be thinking about easing up, Joe launched Josef Chromy Wines. Joe fled his war-torn Czech village in 1950 as a penniless 19-year-old. “I came here with nothing but hope and ambition over 50 years ago. Tasmanians welcomed me and, with their help, I have been rewarded for the challenges and risks I have taken in both the meat and wine industries”.
Arrival at the Cellar Door rewards you with a venue that includes a stunning restaurant, overlooking a picturesque lake and vineyard. It is listed as one of the Top 10 Cellar Doors of Australia and the restaurant has been awarded a Chefs Hat in the Good Food Guide. The menu features locally sourced produce, and you can enjoy dining in the restaurant or purchase a Cheese or Meat/Cheese Platters to enjoy in the grounds.
I visited during Effervescence Tasmania. The vineyard catered for this event very well, and a few of the smaller Tassie sparkling producers told me that they use the facilities at Josef Chromy and the expertise of chief winemaker Jeremy Dineen to make their sparklings. I visited the Cellar Door again in early 2019 and enjoyed a delightful meal in the restaurant. There are a few sparklings available for tasting from the Josef Chromy and Pepik ranges, or available by the glass in the restaurant.
Bookings are required for tasting groups of 6 or more. Behind the scenes wine tours are also
available to be booked on the website.
On my recent visit, I got to meet the man himself! Josef Chromy and Natalie Pickett from The Bubbles Review
Tamar Ridge Cellar Door is high in the hills overlooking the
beautiful Tamar River. I was very happy
to find lots of sparkling on tasting and to learn the story of the Pirie
range. Pirie is named after Dr Andrew
Pirie who has been a very influential figure in the Tasmanian wine industry,
initiating and building some of Tasmania’s largest and most important vineyards
and wineries including Pipers Brook Vineyard, and Ninth Island which he
co-founded with his brother David in 1974 and Pirie sparkling in 1999.
Andrew Pirie no longer owns the Pirie label as it was sold to Brown Brothers around eight years ago, but he continues to be involved as a consultant and ambassador for the brand. He now has a new vineyard Apogee (more about that later), consults on wine industry development, conducts climate research and is writing a book on wine terroir.
I tasted the:
Pirie NV Sparkling, made up of around 12 different reserve wines, 65/35 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir. Fine persistent bead and minerality.
Pirie 2011 Vintage
Sparkling, 50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir, rich and toasty with great length.
Pirie 2010 Sparkling
Rose, 100% Pinot Noir, very faint salmon colour, almost a Blanc de Noirs,
rich palate and complex fruit.
Pirie 2009 Blanc de
Blancs, 100% Chardonnay, lovely honey toast nose, creamy, complex with a
long layered finish.
Resident chefs Hubert & Dan, provide fresh, seasonal platters with local and house made cheeses, salmon and charcuterie to complement the tasting experience.
I made this my lunch spot and sat out on the deck with a view of the river through the trees, a platter and a glass of the 2011 Vintage whilst I made my notes. The perfect office!
A small producer embracing innovation “We make wine powered by the sun” in 2017 they built Tasmania’s first 100% off grid winery and follow traditional small batch wine making philosophies with modern winemaking techniques. The small Cellar Door, is a cottage with a great verandah with views out over the vineyards. Tasting plates featuring specially selected, local produce are available to complement the wines.
I met Fiona who manages the Cellar Door, and sales and marketing and her husband Julian, who is the winemaker.
I tasted the NV Sparkling Blanc de Blancs. Single vineyard, hand vinified, hand bottled and hand disgorged. It is fine, crisp, and creamy cuvee and has been aged on yeast lees for 12 months. They recommend “Enjoy with oysters and good friends” which sounds like a good idea to me!
Since my visit I notice that this wine won a Silver Medal at the 2018 Tasmanian Wine Show. I also tasted a Blanc de Noirs from their sister vineyard Native Point which is on the other side of the Tamar and notice that they now have their own Moores Hill Blanc de Noirs available for purchase.
This small rustic Cellar Door, is located a bit off the beaten track. The staff here were very friendly and shared a bit about the story of this family owned winery. They also shared some great tips on other sparkling Cellar Doors in the area. I tasted the NV Sparkling which is a 60/40 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay. Lovely crisp citrus and green able with spicy berry notes from the Pinot Noir.
Local cheeses, terrines and salmon products are available to purchase, to create your own platter with some lovely spots for a picnic with vineyard and rural views. Some weekends the Bird n’ Herd BBQ food truck is also on site.
This wasn’t on my list but I dropped in here on the off chance that they might have a bubbles, and I was rewarded with one. It is a small Cellar Door. The partners are close friends from two families who chose the Tamar Valley as the place to start their winemaking. I met Tony one of the owners who was very friendly and introduced me to the Goaty Hill Sparkling, which is described as Vintage, Baked Apple, Moreish. They also serve Gourmet Platters and Cheese Plates, available daily from 11.30 – 3.00 and can be designed for 2 people or more.
A small family friendly Cellar Door. This family business owned by Fran Austin and Shane Holloway, who are partners in wine and in life and they are producing a great range of quality sparklings.
“Delamere represents to me the opportunity to produce wines
from the vineyard through to the glass, working alongside family with some of
the finest quality fruit in the country.”
— Shane Holloway
Predominantly focused on Traditional Method sparkling wines,
that are 100% estate grown and produced — a Grower/Producer in the true sense
of the term, they describe that they are on a journey to create a unique range
of handcrafted single site sparkling wines.
I met Alice the Cellar Door manager, and when I told her about The Bubbles Review, she found both Fran and Shane who generously spent time with me to share more about the story of the vineyard. Fran at the time, was juggling maternity leave with winemaking duties. I could clearly see the passion and dedication of this hardworking team for achieving their goals of making sparkling wines of exceptional quality, and unique in character.
I tasted a few from this range:
Non Vintage Cuvée –
a blend of vintages with the majority coming from 2014 vintage, with 30% of
reserve wine adding complexity and depth. 2014 yields were particularly small,
giving wonderful concentration of flavour. Around two years aging on lees.
Non Vintage Sparkling Rosé – pale salmon colour and an aroma of fresh strawberry and musk, 100% hand harvested Pinot Noir with reserve wine from 2016 adding complexity and around two years aging on lees.
2014 Sparkling Cuvée –
the 2014 vintage delivered very small crops of exceptional quality and will
be highly sought after. Rich and complex, opens with honey and develops through
the palate, with stone fruits and fine line of minerality, a lingering and
complex finish. Around three years aging on less.
2012 Vintage Sparkling
Rosé – 100% Pinot Noir. Five years aging on lees and a low dosage of less
than 2 grams allows the voluptuous flavours of the fruit to shine through.
2013 Blanc de Blancs
– 2013 was something of a rollercoaster with some very warm, dry days and rain
before vintage but this all lead to some intense flavours in the fruit and high
levels of complexity. 5 years aging on lees and a low dosage of less than 2
grams.
2008 Late Disgorged
Blanc de Blancs – 100% Chardonnay. 10 years aging on lees and a low dosage
of less than 2 grams allows the voluptuous flavours of the fruit to shine
through and the clear acid backbone to be a focal point of this wine.
Local produce is available to purchase to ‘pick your own
picnic’ emphasis is on seasonal produce that suits a picnicker’s palate. You
can enjoy under the pergola, with the different tasting options.
The Jansz Tasmania vineyard sits to the northeast of the island state within the Pipers River region of the Tamar Valley. This cool little corner is known colloquially as ‘Sparkling Tasmania’.
I learnt a few things about this area on my visit. Temperatures here are moderated by close proximity to Bass Strait. The ocean breezes keep the temperature up during winter – minimising risk of frost, and down in summer – allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and develop intense, delicate and refined flavours.
The soils are also an advantage, resting on a bed of pure,
red, free-draining basalt soils, the Jansz vineyard is the perfect site to grow
grapes for world-class sparkling wines.
Jansz has evolved as one of Australia’s most respected
premium sparkling wines and has trademarked the term Méthode Tasmanoise.
“It could be argued we’re completely mad growing grapes in
the wild and unforgivingly cold Tasmanian environment. But there’s méthode to
our madness.
The climatic conditions of the Jansz vineyard rival the
famed French wine region of Champagne. In fact, it was originally with French
contribution that Jansz became Tasmania’s first sparkling made using the
traditional Méthode.
Today we call it, Méthode Tasmanoise. It’s the essence of a
partnership between the environment and our winemaker. Just as the cool Tasmanian
climate creates spectacular beauty in nature, it is also instrumental in the
creation of art in bottles.”
In a previous blog on Favourite Aussie Sparklings I included Jansz as one of my ‘go to’ labels. I was so happy to be here at the vineyard and was pleased to meet the Cellar Door manager Maxine, already a subscriber to The Bubbles Review who was excited to see me and provided some great information to add to my notes. Maxine told me that it is still a family owned operation, a handcrafted and passionate brand who along with some of the other founders in this region (and supported by the study by Dr Andrew Pirie), recognised the similarity of this area with the Champagne region and the opportunity to create quality sparkling wines. With added input from Jean Baptiste from the Louis Roederer Champagne House it is easy to see why Jansz has evolved as one of Australia’s premium sparkling wines.
The Cellar Door is the Jansz
Tasmania Wine Room and includes an Interpretive Centre. It is adjacent to the vineyard, overlooking a
picturesque lake, cheese boards are available to purchase to enjoy with
tastings.
There are around 6 sparklings on tasting and available for
purchase. I tasted the:
Jansz Tasmania Cuvee
2012 – 50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot
Noir, spend 6 months in oak before aged for 5 years on lees. Complex aromas,
lemon peach and hazelnuts. Layered and elegant.
Jansz Tasmania Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2011 this Blanc de Blancs is not something that is made every year. It is limited release with each bottle numbered, as the name suggests it is from a single block of Chardonnay at the Jansz vineyard. The wine is 100% aged in French Oak and then spent 6 years in second fermentation in the bottle (aged on lees). Very pale gold colour, layers of citrus, almond nougat, with creamy texture and chalky long palate.
The Jansz and Pipers Brook vineyards share a driveway, and you will see a sign pointing to Pipers Brook just after the entrance. An unmade driveway over the hill through the vineyard, reveals ocean views as you drive through the vines to arrive at the architecturally designed winery building. At Pipers Brook you can taste Pipers Brook, Ninth Island and Kreglingerwines.
The café was closed for refurbishment when I was there, but
has since re-opened featuring fresh, local Tasmanian produce.
In 2016 winemaker Natalie Fryar (formerly Jansz) joined the Kreglinger team “I’m so excited to be working with some of the best sparkling fruit in Australia found right here on the estate at Pipers Brook.” Natalie said “It will be my honour and challenge to oversee the sparkling program and from what I’ve experienced already, wine lovers are in for a real treat with our upcoming releases.”
There are already some great results. In his 2018 Sparkling Report, Tyson Stelzer listed the Ninth Island NV Rosé as the Sparkling Wine of The Year Under $25 (a great achievement for a Rosé) with Ninth Island Non Vintage Cuvee listed as a runner up for the title. The acclaim follows the Gold Medal win for the NV Rosé at the 2018 Tasmanian Wine Show.
Ninth Island
Non-Vintage Sparkling, blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, this
is another good quality sparkling at a
great price.
Ninth Island
Non-vintage Sparkling Rosé, rose petals, fresh strawberry, spice and
pouring cream. The blend showcases the Pinot Noir, supported by fresh zesty
structure of Chardonnay. Rich layered palate.
There were several sparklings available for tasting at the
Cellar Door. I tasted:
Bay of Fires’ cellar door is the Tasmanian home of Bay of Fires, House of Arras sparkling wines.
Bay of Fires Wines was founded in the 1990s by a team of
dedicated winemaking and viticultural professionals, who believed Tasmania
would one day become the pre-eminent Australian region to produce cool-climate
Tasmanian wines.
The philosophy for Arras sparkling wines is to create world
class sparkling wines. Created by Australia’s most awarded sparkling winemaker,
Ed Carr, outstanding fruit is sourced across Tasmania’s premium cold climate
regions. The art of blending sparkling wine is one that can only be mastered by
perfecting the craft, patience to allow the wine to mature at its own pace and
the experience to know when it is at its best. The entire portfolio of Arras
sparkling wines are held back between 3-10 yrs to give these wines the
distinction, quality and maturity they require to be world class, unique
sparkling wines.
Over the past 20 years Ed Carr has amassed more than 100
trophies in Australian wine shows including 21 consecutive “Best Sparkling
White Wine of Show” trophies at capital city wine shows. In 2018 he became
the only non-champenois to receive a Lifetime Achievement Award at the
Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships in London, alongside the
legendary chef de caves of Charles Heidsieck, Dom Pérignon, Billecart-Salmon,
Taittinger, Perrier-Jouët, Lanson and Pommery. To see Tasmanian sparkling
acknowledged in such company on the global stage is an amazing achievement!
At the ‘Tasmanian Sparkling Takes on the World’ Masterclass that I attended at Effervescence Tasmania, in a blind tasting of eight sparklings including a few big name champagnes, the Arras EJ Carr Late Disgorged 2003 was overwhelming voted the favourite.
It was Ed’s foresight and firm belief in the potential of
Tasmania as Australia’s best sparkling fruit resource that was the driving
force behind the company’s 1995 decision to produce Tasmanian prestige cuvée,
evolving into the House of Arras range. December 2002 marked the release of the
1998 Arras – the first vintage made from 100% Tasmanian fruit.
The Cellar Door experience offers gardens with sweeping views over the vines, the winery and Pipers River. With local cheese and artisan pizzas to enjoy with the wines, this is one of the few sparkling wineries that served food in this area, so you could plan for a lunch stop here. There is also a seated Premium Arras Tasting Experience.
The staff here were great, I met Alicia and she generously
shared her knowledge of the wines, the vineyards and the local region.
I tasted:
Arras Grand Vintage
2008 (just changed over from 2007). 65% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, aged
for 7 years, complex full palate wine, lingering finish, aromas of toast,
honeycomb, sourdough and nougat.
Arras Rose 2006
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay (with a dash of Pinot Meunier), a light salmon
colour, it is barely pink, lovely savoury flavours balanced with ripe
strawberries.
Clover Hill is one of Australia’s very few premium sparkling
houses solely producing sparkling wines in the traditional method. With the
intention to produce a refined sparkling wine to rival that of great Champagne
houses, Clover Hill was established in 1986 on the site of an old dairy farm in
north eastern Tasmania. These first plantings produced Clover Hill’s debut
vintage in 1991. Since this time, Clover Hill has become synonymous with
elegance and refinement, gaining a reputation of uncompromising quality. A new Cellar
Door opened in late 2017.
A long-time favourite of mine, I am in good company as it was chosen by royalty when ‘our own’ Princess Mary chose Clover Hill Vintage Brut to be served to celebrate her wedding to Prince Frederick. It was also selected as one of the four iconic Australian wines served to Queen Elizabeth II and The Duke of Edinburgh during their Australian visit in 2011.
Clover Hill is acknowledged as one of Australia’s finest
sparkling producers. With the cool climate and growing conditions of Tasmania
being remarkably similar to that of the Champagne region of France, Clover Hill
has been able to produce sparkling wines of quality, elegance and finesse.
Ian, the Cellar Door Manager discussed some of the background of the new building, the owners of Clover Hill (the Goelet family from France, who also own Taltarni in Victoria) wanted a Cellar Door to reflect the quality of the brand.
The new Cellar Door stays true to the 3 pillars of Clover Hill: terroir, method and blend. This beautiful architect designed building with rammed earth walls made from the local terroir, features a tasting room that has doors opening up onto the deck with panoramic views of the vineyard, natural forests and Bass Strait. Inside is a relaxing lounge area with plush ottomans, a tasting bar and a VIP room for Club Prestige members wanting a peaceful moment.
A perfect place to sit and taste your way through the Clover
Hill range!
“The neomodern building sits at the top of our sloping vineyard so your eye is led down into the vines – which we encourage visitors to take a wander through – and on a clear day you can see the white caps of Bass Strait.”
Clover Hill’s commitment to excellence has been recognised with numerous awards including being inducted into the Australian Sparkling Hall of Honour in 2017, twice awarded Tasmanian Vineyard of the Year, and the Gourmet Traveller 2018 Cellar Door Awards – Best Tasting Experience.
Clover Hill is planted solely to the traditional sparkling
wine varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. These varieties are
all trellised in traditional close proximity plantings. A strong focus on
Chardonnay is acknowledged and rewarded with Tyson Stelzer naming the Clover Hill 2005 Cuvée Prestige Late
Disgorged his Blanc de Blancs of 2018.
Some of the wines featured are available for regular
tastings, some with the VIP Experience and some you won’t find in stores as
they are only for purchase at Cellar Door.
Clover Hill Tasmanian Cuvée Rosé, NON-VINTAGE – 54% Chardonnay, 43% Pinot Noir, 3% Pinot Meunier – delicate salmon pink colour, with a soft and creamy mousse. Strawberry and dark cherry notes marry perfectly with the wine’s fresh brioche characters. The wine is well structured, with sweet red berries and cream enveloping the palate.
Clover Hill Tasmanian
Cuvée, NON-VINTAGE – 53% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier-
Delicate and soft mousse, on the nose, notes of bright citrus, fresh apples,
brioche and cream. On the palate, crisp apple pie and lime characters. Great
drive and length.
Clover Hill VINTAGE
2013 – 63% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Meunier blend. The palate
is delicate and creamy, with fine bead and persistent mousse, light straw
colour indicative of a chardonnay, has developed a golden hue during its three
years on tirage. On the nose, it displays citrus and red berries, with a hint
of toasted brioche. This is a delightful wine.
Clover Hill Cuvée
Exceptionnelle Blanc de Blancs, VINTAGE 2012 – 100% Chardonnay. The 2012
Blanc de Blancs is a pale straw colour with a fine, persistent bead and mousse.
Aromas of fresh melon, underpinned by toasty notes and sweet cinnamon. The
palate is bold and rich with flavours of fresh citris with a persistent soft
minerality the lingers on the finish.
Clover Hill Cuvée
Exceptionnelle Vintage Rosé, VINTAGE 2013 – 100% Pinot Noir, limited
release, is crafted via extended skin contact of Pinot Noir to create a soft,
pink colour. Fine persistent bead and mouth filling mousse, rich flavours of
strawberry and citrus with hints of brioche, with a fine crisp finish.
Clover Hill Cuvée
Prestige Brut. VINTAGE 2005 – 100% Chardonnay. This limited-release Late
Disgorged Brut. A vibrant rich straw colour with a persistent fine bead are
precursors to the refined and gentle foaming mousse. An assortment of fresh lemon curd and
brioche, developed almond and toasty characters, it is the epitome of Clover
Hill’s signature house style – a true combination of passion and patience.
Cheese platters are available every day and share plates with
seasonal local produce are available on weekends.
The Clover Hill Elite VIP Experience , is a guided tasting experience and a great way to taste the range, which includes the limited release Exceptionelle and Prestige Blanc de Blancs, tasting plate and wine credit. It is $75pp and must be booked in advance.
I mentioned earlier that we would learn more about Dr Andrew Pirie of the Pirie label whose name appears over and over in the history of sparkling wine in Tasmania. Aside from his continued research, published studies and consulting work, he has established the Apogee label.
The goal to produce very high-quality wines from a small, hand tended area that is operated on a commercial and sustainable basis. The belief is that the combination of the highly researched site with the latest knowledge of terroir theory is leading to wines that are very expressive of the terroir.
“A search for the ‘terroir’ of the famous French cool-climate areas of northern France in Australia led me to buy land in partnership with my brother David, in northern Tasmania in December 1973. This search study became part of my doctoral thesis on viticulture completed at the University of Sydney in 1977. The vineyard was named Pipers Brook Vineyard after the local brook and is now part of history. Pipers Brook’s second-label Ninth Island became the most widely distributed and recognised label from Tasmania. Pirie was the Pipers Brook sparkling wine label and was first made in 1995. It became the most awarded of all the wines I made and has been drunk by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II on at least two occasions.
“I have continued to research wine climates and these days the knowledge is more precise in predicting ‘terroir’. In a paper at the International Cool Climate Symposium in Hobart in 2012 I selected the best index for predicting grapevine ripening in cool climates. When the opportunity to apply this learning arose again recently, I could not resist planting another sparkling wine vineyard in what appeared to be a grand cru sparkling site.”
The vineyard name Apogee, means the highest point.
The philosophy behind Apogee:
1. Use the latest climatology to locate a perfect ripening
location for sparkling wine using the classic Champagne grapes Chardonnay,
Pinot noir and Pinot Meunier with a small amount of Pinot Gris known as
Fromenteau in Champagne.
2. Produce only Single Vineyard wines so that the output
fully reflects the distinguished vineyard conditions and intensive vineyard
manipulations.
3. Restrict the scale to 2 hectares, which is the average
size of a holding in Champagne. This is deliberately chosen to test the theory
that the ability to manage vineyards perfectly limits their scale.
The Apogee project has had several objectives, the main being to produce traditional method sparkling that rivals Champagne. Others are to demonstrate how the latest knowledge of terroir can pin-point great sites and to show that single site sparklings can produce the best wine.
The Cellar Door is tiny, and Andrew wasn’t there on my visit, but the friendly family Labrador greeted me and someone came out from the house to show me the Cellar Door. Apogee, the highest point is not just about a location, but also the zenith of accomplishment. Andrew Pirie, now in his 70s, is working on the culmination of his career, which is all about quality rather than quantity. Only vintage wine is created and I tasted these two on my visit:
2014 Deluxe Vintage
Brut. Light gold with fine mousse and a suitable foamy collar when
poured. Aromas range from bready, yeasty
overtones through to perfumed red fruits and lemon-rind with a faint salty
oyster-shell character which is part of our terroir. Full palate with notes of toasty honey honey
with a racy lemon finish towards the end. A vineyard blend of pinot noir,
chardonnay and pinot meunier.
Vintage Deluxe Rosé
2014. Light salmon pink (almost rose gold) with fine mousse. aromas of
cherry, raspberry and musk are typical of this vineyard and are found in this
wine. The palate shows strong midpalate richness, faint salty oyster shell with
cherry and floral tones. A vineyard
blend of 88% pinot noir and 12% chardonnay was hand-picked and whole bunch
pressed, soaked on skins (saigné).
Apogee is located very close to Clover Hill, and you could plan your itinerary to visit to the two of them. You may want to check in advance if Apogee will be open on the day of your visit, or take a chance and check to see if the signboard is out the front on the day.
Founded in 1976, they have been producing sparkling since 1993. Geoff and Susan Bull cleared the site in 1978, planted the first vines in 1979 and established the first commercial winery on the East Coast. They were early pioneers in a new region which years later revealed exciting quality potential in wines. The region now boasts over a dozen different vineyards.
The Freycinet Vineyard and Winery is family owned with
daughter Lindy Bull and her partner Claudio Radenti taking over the family
tradition of gently handcrafting the wines.
I tasted the 2011
Radenti Sparkling which is 69/31 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir. It has spent 4
years on lees, I tasted green apple, citrus and some spicy notes that flow and
merge with creamy, soft yeasty complexity and textures. The Radenti sparkling heritage has received
multiple awards and the 2011 had just won gold at the Tasmanian wine show.
Lovely deck overlooking the vineyard to enjoy a drink and
the view.
“At Devil’s Corner we are dedicated to creating the finest
wines imaginable, but in doing so we’ve had to make a home in one of the
wildest places in Tasmania.”
There is an amazing view from this Cellar Door. “It’s a
beautiful struggle, being caught between Devil’s Corner and the deep blue sea.”
It is a great lunch stop, as there is food made from local produce at Tombolo Café, fresh seafood from The Fishers and you can relax on the deck with a glass of wine to match, overlooking magnificent views of the Hazards and ocean. There is also a fun lookout to climb.
This was a very busy Cellar Door and definitely worth a stop for the view and something to eat. There is only one sparkling produced under this label, the Devil’s Corner, Sparkling Cuvée NV. Fresh crunchy apple, and a touch of citrus. It is lively and fresh in the mouth with a dry refreshing finish. 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. The second fermentation is done using the tank method, also known as the Charmat method, which produces bright, fresh fruit characters, in contrast the traditional method which produces a more complex flavour profile from aging on yeast in the bottle.
Devil’s Corner, like the Pirie sparkling label, is also owned by Brown Brothers.
https://www.devilscorner.com.au/
Spring Vale
Spring Vale Vineyard’s small and intimate Cellar Door is
actually an old stable, which was built by convict labour in 1842 and is now
heritage listed.
The stable has been preserved (with minor restorations
necessary) and is now a unique cellar door building with a very historic feel.
The 2016 “Salute” Sparkling comprises 72% Pinot Noir, 23%
Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier. The aromas show fresh strawberry and lemon
zest and a hint of vanilla. Fresh berry fruit give some sweetness to the palate
which is nicely balanced with Granny Smith apple, leading to a dry, savoury
finish. A classic aperitif sparkling, delicious with Tassie oysters.
No café on site, but you can purchase a cheese box. There was a nice little picnic area set up with a tent for shade looking over the vineyard.
With a focus on producing small quantities of handmade wine Milton are the winners of the 2017 Tasmanian Vineyard of the Year award.
There are two sparklings produced, but unfortunately neither of them are available for tasting. They are available to purchase by the glass and take into the Sophie’s restaurant which shares the space. Located in a lovely weatherboard building with big verandahs with views out over the lake and vineyard.
This limited release Vintage Sparkling is a medium bodied
style with some yeasty complexity and creamy texture. Aging on lees for 5 years
has contributed to a fine persistent bead.
2016 Sparkling Pinot Noir Laura. A lovely pale pink sparkling wine made predominately from Pinot Noir. Refreshingly dry, elegant and crisp with strawberry and cherry flavours and a long fine finish.
I made this my lunch stop and paired it with a glass of 2016 Sparkling Pinot Noir Laura. The restaurant Sophie’s is the creation of chef Sophie Bermudes, who trained in Bordeaux and has spent the majority of her career working throughout the south-west of France. She has a French approach to Tasmanian produce. Guests can choose from a blackboard seasonal menu and take-away picnic options are also available.
This is not a Cellar Door. It is an oyster farm gate shop … and yes, it is a shack (well caravan), located about 20 minutes off the Tasman Highway near Swansea at a place called Dolphin Sands. You could grab a bottle of chilled bubbly from one of your Cellar Door visits and include a stop here for freshly shucked oysters straight off the farm. Yum!
A small family vineyard with four hectares of vines (Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay), which are hand-tended.
At a latitude of 42 degrees 53’ south, Bangor’s vineyard is one of the most southerly in Tasmania, and the world, making it a true cool climate site. There is a beautiful view over Dunalley and Blackman Bay which you can view from the verandah or from one of the picnic tables on the lawn. There is a cubby and sandpit for kids to play in. There is only one sparkling produced, but it was lovely, and matched with local oysters taking in the view it was a divine experience.
Bangor Vintage
Sparkling (2012)
Bangor’s 2012 vintage sparkling is a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, made in the méthode traditionelle. A deliciously crisp sparkling displaying peach pear, white cherry and strawberry fruit flavours, balanced with creamy nougat and almond notes.
Located 20 minutes from Hobart in the Coal River Valley, the Frogmore Creek Cellar Door is housed in a rustic homestead that looks out over rolling hills and the vineyard.
On the mezzanine floor you can take a walk around the
display of art works depicting the history of winemaking in Tasmania.
There are a few sparklings on tasting from the 42 Degree South and the Frogmore Creek range. I tasted:
NV 42 degrees South
Sparkling – 82% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Noir. Aromas of toasty brioche and
delicate citrus subtly emerge from the fine beads. Full and crisp flavours of
apples with lengthy creamy structure. Fine
and Subtle.
NV 42 degrees South
Sparkling Rose – 90% Pinot Noir, 7 % Pinot Meunier, 3% Chardonnay. This wine has a deep salmon colour with a
nose of light strawberry flavours and fresh fruit. On the palate you should
taste fresh red berry fruit with a creamy texture.
2016 Frogmore Creek
Sparkling Cuvée – 64% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 4% Pinot Meunier. Light
beads, subtle, fresh and delicate. A beautiful wine.
The Cellar Door includes a restaurant featuring seasonal local produce from sea, land and garden, with a deck with views out over the vineyard and a big lawn area with some lawn games and space for kids to roam. I dined here and had a beautiful food match of Tempura Oysters with the Sparkling Rose.
You can now also visit the The Lounge by Frogmore Creek (Bar and Restaurant) located in the Macq01 building in Hobart, which is elevated over Kings Wharf. It is a lovely way to spend an afternoon enjoying views of the marina, whilst sipping a glass of their lovely bubbly.
https://frogmorecreek.com.au/
Stefano Lubiana
Stefano (Steve) Lubiana is a fifth generation wine maker who
has carved out a niche in the Tasmanian wine industry. Steve identified the
uniqueness that Tasmanian grape growing had to offer and tasted the potential
for greatness. The family owned vineyard is around a 30 minute drive from
Hobart and wraps itself around the picturesque foothills of the Derwent River
estuary. Established in 1990 the majority of the estate is dedicated to
biodynamically grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I love Stefano Lubiana wines
and order them whenever I see them on a menu.
At the Cellar Door there is an Osteria, which can be described as a small ‘farmhouse’ style eatery in Italy.
The menu here is fresh, seasonal and based around what comes
out of their biodynamic vegetable garden. They harvest honey from their own
bees and pickle and preserve their own produce. Free-range meats are sourced
from local farmers and wild caught seafood from the pristine waters of
Tasmania.
We enjoyed a platter on the terrace with a glass of the NV
Brut Reserve, before relaxing in the bean bags in the sun, taking in the
view. It was a delightful afternoon! I tasted:
Stefano Lubiana NV
Brut Reserve – multi-vintage blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that
incorporates aged reserves of wine specially prepared for the production the
house style of sparkling. The natural viticulture and low yields along with the
reserve wine creates a sparkling wine that tastes so different – fruit-pure,
intense, rich, creamy and complex. A Gold Winner at the Decanter International
Awards. It is a great all-rounder sparkling wine.
Stefano Lubiana Grande Vintage 2008 – A blend of Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%) with 7 years on lees before being disgorged in May 2016. A delightful classic ‘Tassie Sparkling’ with plenty of natural acidity.
On my last trip I didn’t get to visit this Cellar Door as Mona was booked out for a Dark Mofo event. I visited the winery about 20 years ago, which was very basic compared to today! Now situated in the amazing Mona art gallery, (which I did go to the opening of), I agree with their website “Come and quaff Moorilla Wine and art. A match made in the proverbial. And what better way to experience it than a top-notch tour or two as part of Moorilla Experiences.”
The winery was founded in 1962 and focuses on a small, very high-quality output. From estate-grown fruit, the ultra-premium wines are made using small-batch winemaking techniques in a gravity-assisted winery. They do make some lovely sparklings. You could easily spend a half or even full day taking in all there is to see and experience, and they also offer amazing accommodation so you could stay overnight. From Hobart, you can take the Mona ferry, which is around 25 minutes, or around 20 minutes by car.
A big thank you to Clover Hill, Jansz and Bay of Fires who provided giveaways for our subscribers as part of our feature on Tassie Sparkling Wine.
Like to join me for our Tassie Sparkling Cellar Door tour? Visit our Events and Tours page for more information
Natalie Pickett is the Founder of The Bubbles Review which is for people who like champagne and other bubbles, written by people who have a love of all things sparkling! At The Bubbles Review, we like to debunk some myths, make the art of drinking champagne accessible, explore bubbly regions and champagne bars, and provide events for you to join us and indulge.
Like to keep following us? Sign up to The Bubbles Review list and you will be included in our Subscriber prize draws. The monthly giveaway is usually a chance to win a lovely champagne or sparkling gift. Join our list!
Us Aussies, we always like to hear how we compare with the rest of the world. To discover we are Top 10 in something, is always a great thrill.
So as a lover of champagne, imagine my excitement to see that Australia makes the Top 10 in champagne consumption in the world. Yay us!
Australia confidently holds its place as the fifth largest champagne market per head of population, and the only country outside Europe in the top seven overall, exceeded only by France, Belgium, Switzerland and the UK.
I recently interviewed Tyson Stelzer, who is a multi award winning wine writer and presenter, and author of the award winning The Champagne Guide. I asked him what changes he had seen with champagne in Australia to which he responded that “Australia is now the fastest growing champagne market on earth”.
A search on statistics and I confirm that, yes, that’s true. No country outside Europe drinks more champagne per person than Australia. The average Australian now drinks twice as much champagne as the average German, three times as much as the Italians, almost four times as much as the Japanese and close to five times as much as Americans. It’s remarkable that such a tremendous volume of champagne would ship all the way to our land downunder!
The growth of champagne in Australia in the past decade has been phenomenal, we are drinking more than three times as much as we were seven or eight years ago, says Tyson. Over this same period, champagne sales globally have grown less than 17%. This means little Australia alone takes the credit for more than one-seventh of champagne’s global growth over the past fifteen years!
Does this mean that our taste in bubbles is becoming better? I guess the short answer is yes, but we can improve our palate even more. I asked Tyson for some insight on Australia’s champagne drinking habits and some tips on how to discover more. Before I give you the link to the video, a couple of terms that are mentioned that you might not be aware of:
Grower champagnes – produced by the same estate that owns the vineyards from which the grapes come. Many of these are family owned vineyards. In Australia we would most commonly refer to the equivalent as a boutique winery. Grower Champagnes tend to be more terroir focused, as they are often sourced from single or closely located vineyards around a village, in comparison to some of the large Champagne Houses, who source grapes from many different vineyards to blend to create their signature house style.
Co-operative champagnes – is as the name suggests a group co-operating together. This could be a grower’s co-op that pools their resources and produces wine under a single brand, or a union of growers who share their resources and collectively market their own brands.
On my recent trip to Champagne, I visited Champagne Collet home to the oldest Cooperative in Champagne ‘The COGEVI’. They have created this short-film which recounts the history through the ages right from its creation during the Revolution Champenoise in 1911. It depicts the struggle and up-rising of the Champagne winegrowers for the protection of their terroir and to gain recognition of a united Champagne appellation. It really helped me to understand the reasons behind the fierce protection of the Champagne name and gave insight into some of the struggles for growers and the advantages of the co-operatives. Highly recommend it, you can view this short film (6mins) here The roots of COGEVI (note it is set to be viewed for 18 years and older due to the discussion of alcohol, which is why it will tell you it is restricted).
Tyson Stelzer is a multi-award winning wine writer, television presenter and international speaker. He was named The International Wine & Spirit Communicator of the Year, The Australian Wine Communicator of the Year and The International Champagne Writer of the Year. He is the author and publisher of sixteen wine books, a regular contributor to fifteen magazines, a frequent judge and chair at Australian wine shows and has presented at wine events in nine countries. www.TysonStelzer.com is your link to his wine recommendations, and book sales.
Natalie Pickett is the Founder of The Bubbles Review which is for people who like champagne and other bubbles, written by people who have a love of all things sparkling! At The Bubbles Review, we like to debunk some myths, make the art of drinking champagne accessible, explore bubbly regions and champagne bars, and provide events for you to join us and indulge.
Like to keep following us? Sign up to The Bubbles Review list and you will be included in our monthly Subscriber offers and prize draws. The giveaways are a bubbly giveaway. In November it is a chance to win a signed copy of Tyson’s The Champagne Guide. Join our list!
Natalie Pickett is the Founder of The Bubbles Review which is for people who like champagne and other bubbles, written by people who have a love of all things sparkling! At The Bubbles Review, we like to debunk some myths, make the art of drinking champagne accessible, explore bubbly regions and champagne bars, and provide events for you to join us and indulge.
Tyson Stelzer is a multi-award winning wine writer, television presenter and international speaker. He was named The International Wine & Spirit Communicator of the Year, The Australian Wine Communicator of the Year and The International Champagne Writer of the Year. He is the author and publisher of sixteen wine books, a regular contributor to fifteen magazines, a frequent judge and chair at Australian wine shows and has presented at wine events in nine countries. 
Natalie Pickett is the Founder of The Bubbles Review which is for people who like champagne and other bubbles, written by people who have a love of all things sparkling! At The Bubbles Review, we like to debunk some myths, make the art of drinking champagne accessible, explore bubbly regions and champagne bars, and provide events for you to join us and indulge.